 
Air Conditioning (A/C) Products
Air Compressors & Inflators
Where do I dispense refrigerant? -- Finding the low-side port?
The low-pressure port usually has a blue or black dust cap and is located on the larger diameter metal tubing that runs between the evaporator (in the dashboard) and the compressor. To locate the low-pressure port:
- Find the compressor.
- Find large diameter metal tubing that leads from the compressor back to the fire wall.
- Find port on this tube. Our quick-connect coupler should fit onto this port. To be sure, compare with the port on the other tube (smaller tube) that leads from the compressor to the condenser near the radiator. This port is larger and is the High Side port. Our quick-connect coupler will NOT fit on the High Side port.
- Do not attempt to connect to the high side port as this can cause a can of refrigerant to explode.
- Sometimes the low side port is on-or-near the compressor, sometimes it’s on an accumulator near the firewall…not on the large diameter metal tube.
Examples of Low-pressure (low-side) port locations
Buick LeSabre
Pontica Bonneville
Olds 88/Regency
Toyota Camry
Ford Taurus
Honda
Saturn
Mitsubishi Galant
VW Passat
Watch Video of Low-side Port Locations:
Windows Media - High Bandwidth
Windows Media - Low Bandwidth
Real Player - High Bandwidth
Real Player - Low Bandwidth
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My A/C is not blowing cold. What's my first step?
The first step is to check if you need mechanical repair or if recharging is likely to restore cooling performance -- See next section below for how to check this.
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How do I Know if I need recharging or mechanical repair?
If the compressor is engaging, the center of the compressor clutch will turn with the outer pulley. If the pulley does not turn and there is a loud squeal, this usually indicates a locked up compressor. The compressor and drier will need to be replaced.
What If the clutch is not engaging but the outer pulley is spinning freely? If the refrigerant charge is low, the low pressure cut out or the low pressure cycling switch can both prevent the clutch from engaging. Adding some refrigerant should alleviate the problem (first check if you need to retrofit -- see next section below). Also, while initially putting in some refrigerant, try setting the air conditioner to DEFROST.
What if you get a starting pressure reading of over 65psi but your A/C is not blowing cold? If the compressor is not running, put ½ can of refrigerant in to try and get the compressor to kick on (first check if you need to retrofit -- see next section below). If it does not kick on, then you need mechanical repair. If the compressor is running and the pressure reading is over 65psi, you either have too much refrigerant or need mechanical repair. Either way, you need professional help.
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Do I need to retrofit before recharging?
If your car is a 1994 or earlier model, you probably have an R-12 A/C system (a system that uses R-12 refrigerant) and need to retrofit before recharging with R-134a refrigerant. Check under the hood for a label indicating whether the system is R-12 or R-134a.
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Locating & Sealing A/C Leaks
If your A/C is not blowing cold you probably are low on refrigerant due to a leak. Most leaks are in rubber components such as O-rings, hoses and gaskets. (See General section above on how to determine if you have a mechanical problem instead).
The best way to find leaks is with our UV Leak Detection & Sealer Kit (UVK-1CS), which provides UV dye, fluorescence-enhancing glasses and UV light, as well as leak sealer. You can also buy our UV dye separately (UVD-1).
[link to UV leak detection product sub-group page]
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Boosting A/C Performance
First, make sure your system is fully charged with refrigerant. An undercharged or overcharged system will not perform its best. Use a pressure gauge to determine if you need to recharge.
To boost performance even if you are fully charged, we recommend A/C performance boosters which will increase your system's cooling capacity.
MaxiCool Performance Booster (MC-134A) or High Mileage Booster (HMB-1DC). And, you can use Chill Out (CHL-1), which lowers radiation fluid temperature and makes your engine run cooler, as well as increasing the A/C system’s cooling capacity.
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Eliminating Bad A/C Smell
Our Pure Air (APR-8) effectively eliminates odor at its source by killing bacteria, mold and mildew in the system. In addition to eliminating odor, killing mold will also remove one of the most common types of allergies.
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Resource Links
ASSOCIATIONS
Automotive Aftermarket Industry Association
Motor and Equipment Manufacturer's Association
SEMA, Specialty Equipment Market Association
Mobile Air Conditioning Society
GOVERNMENT
EPA Ozone Protection Regulations
Bureau of Transportation Statistics-US
NHTSA National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
AUTOMOTIVE SITES
ACDelco
All Things Automotive
Autopedia - The Automotive Encyclopedia
AutoSite
Kelley Blue Book: Blue Book used car guide
MAGAZINES AND NEWS
Automotive Week
Car and Driver
Motor Trend
NASCAR online
Popular Mechanics Automotive
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